Pinewood Derby Photo Gallery

Here is Vuk’s Car. This flying wedge took first place in the pack…


Mike and his son sent us photos of their Hot Rod – Looks Great! Love those headers. Best of luck to you guys.

Here is Hot Rod built by Doug and Elijah. This car won FIRST PLACE in their pack even without polishing the axles!  Great work you guys!


Here are some other great pinewood derby you guys have made.  Email yours to me at and I will post them here.Click the picture  for a better view.

4 comments for “Pinewood Derby Photo Gallery

  1. Willy Reese
    January 16, 2012 at 9:15 pm

    For you wedge design that you have won most races with, do you only melt lead into the two slots nearest rear axle? Or do you also melt lead in the cavity where you epoxied the two screws as well? If you did not melt lead in with the two screws, then please explain the screws. I am guessing it is what you learned established the best weight balance to offset the heavy weights on the rear axle. Appreciate any other insight or directions you might be able to share for my son and me. We are racing cars next weekend so I need to get on the building with him asap. Any tips on doing the wheels and axles on our own in the garage. With everything for sale on line, it sort of scares me about being able to compete so any tips are much appreciated. For the axles, we usually just sand with 400 or 600 to get the notches off and then use a polishing pumice powder. Thanks for all tips in advance. Congrats on your site too! It is really awesome.


  2. Rob
    January 17, 2012 at 9:23 am

    First of all, the only “special tool” you really need to buy is a cheap digital kitchen scale. You really need to get the weight right. Regarding the lead, it only goes into the two 3/8 holes. The cavity serves two functions: 1) to shift the center of gravity to the rear of the car, and 2) to provide space for the machine screws. The main purpose of the screws is to allow a slight adjustment of weight on race day. You want to get as close to 5.0 ounces at home using several washers secured onto the screws with a nut, then at the race check-in add washers until you go over 5.0. Then remove the last washer and re-weigh. This allows you to use the uncertainty of the measurement (there is a lot, actually) to your advantage. The axles need to be burr-free and fairly polished. More important is to get a lot of graphite in the axle hole. Good Luck!!

  3. Willy
    January 26, 2012 at 3:22 pm

    Well, race day is this weekend, and we went with your design. Very cool. THANKS ! One more speed tip question about axles? We bore out the holes perhaps a little too much because the axles wiggle just a little on the outside. What innovative and practical suggestions do you have for getting the axles aligned well so that the car rolls straight. We have the darnest time trying to turn the nails slightly hoping the car will roll straight. I know it is trial and error, but I am concerned that with slight movement of the axles we are not getting them to align properly to where the car will roll straight. Once we do get it to roll straight, we add 5 min epoxy to lock the axles in. We just can’t get them to roll straight. Any suggestions would be a huge help. Thanks.

  4. mike
    February 5, 2017 at 10:55 am

    We have a rule that we cant move the axels they have to go in the slots provided how does this change the way we make the wedge car or do we just keep everything the same ?

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